(Read more about Sullivan Bay & view the photos.)
It's either comforting to know that a simple pebble in a soda can will protect you from a bear attack - or extremely disconcerting to think that all that stands between you and the first-hand experience of bear breath is a light but annoying clattering sound...
On our way from the misty, picturesque shores of Lagoon Cove to, well, the misty and picturesque shores of Sullivan Bay (it might have been a good idea to pack a thesaurus - how many ways can one say "beautiful, awe-inspiring, majestic," etc?), a few boats proceeded down Knight Inlet to the old site of an abandoned First Nations fishing village, Mamalilikulla, on Village Island. As we rode the dingy to a ramshackle dock, the departing Tour participants warned us of fresh bear droppings ("they're still warm," they said, although we didn't ask precisely how they made such a determination), and pointed to a pop can on the dock that we could use (just insert pebble) to ward off any unexpected visitors.
Either we showed expert form in our can-rattling, or the bears were off on a mid-morning snooze; either way, the brief walk from the shore to the village site was scenic and serene. We did locate the site of the old long house, where nothing but the massive timbers of the front and rear entrances remained. An abandoned hospital, a few tumbledown homes and an impressive but fallen totem pole were some of the other finds on our hike. But with the persistent site of bear scat on our trail (more accurately, the bears' trail), no one minded an early return to the tender.
Back on our way, the misty weather turned decidedly more moist, and everyone donned their official Grand Tour jackets (thanks to Tour sponsor Ronstan for keeping us all warm and dry!) for the docking at Sullivan Bay.
A floating town, Sullivan Bay is our last point south of Queen Charlotte Strait. Area hosts Pat and Lynn Finnerty have been warm and helpful, eager to share maps and tips on the local fishing spots.
Since they arrived in the floating town of Sullivan Bay in 1969, the Finnerty's have raised two seals and one child. They have lived through two tsunami warnings, one fire and many more adventures. If you are around long enough you will probably bump into Pat who can give you the history, or catch Lynn and Trish in the store to fill in where Pat left off. You will find all the staff helpful and eager to tell some tall tales of their own.
You can go "downtown" to check out the painted propane tanks, dock signs such as Main Street and Fish Alley, or the largest of catch of the day painted on the dock. The flowers give you that shot of color to replace the green, gray and blue of the hillsides and sky. Gardeners suffering from withdrawal are encouraged to pinch off a couple of dead flowers or pluck a few of those nasty weeds that sneak up in a hot summer.
Tonight at the new restaurant, Ron Mauselle and his wife Maxie hosted a wonderful wine and hors d'oeuvres reception, courtesy of Inflatable Boat Center - the largest Zodiac dealer in North America. Everyone was in great spirits, and Mr. Takagi chose the event to wear his blazer and bow tie for an added touch of class.
Everyone retired early to get a good night's rest for the crossing tomorrow. But the weather forecast told of gale force winds on the Queen Charlotte Strait. Stay tuned to see if our intrepid owners make the journey or spend another peaceful day at Sullivan Bay...
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> GRAND TOUR HOME
> ROUTE MAP
> LOG BLOG
- Day 1: Nanaimo
- Day 2: Pender Harbour
- Day 3: Prideaux Haven
- Day 4: Shoal Bay
- Day 5: Lagoon Cove
- Day 6: Sullivan Bay
- Day 7: Sullivan Bay
- Day 8: Sullivan Bay
- Day 9: Duncanby Landing
- Day 10: Shearwater
- Day 11: Khutze Inlet
- Day 12: Klewnuggit Inlet
- Day 13: Prince Rupert
- Day 14: Foggy Bay
- Day 15: Ketchikan
- Day 16: Ketchikan
- Day 17: Meyers Chuck
- Day 18: Santa Anna Inlet
- Day 19: Wrangell
- Day 20: Wrangell
> DESTINATIONS
> SPONSORS
Special Thanks to
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