(Read more about Ketchikan & view the photos.)
Ketchikan, once a rough town full of canneries, sawmills, miners and loggers, used to boast that its Creek Street had the largest red light district west of the Mississippi. The city and Creek District now thrive on tourism, fishing and government. During the summer, the harbor buzzes with cruise ships, ferries, fishing boats, groups of kayakers, and float planes taking off. Today, though, the town was buzzing about the Grand Tour…
The (relatively) short cruise up Revillagigedo Channel from Foggy Bay to Ketchikan threatened to be a repeat of yesterday's gut-churning journey. But 4-5 foot swells lasted for only the first hour of the trip, and conditions soon calmed as we move up Tongass Narrows into Ketchikan.
After tying up at Bar Harbor marina (tip: before you leave for a cruise like this, get your I-68 from US Customs to speed the process; everyone on our boat had one, and we were able to simply call in to clear without having to be boarded), we made our way into downtown Ketchikan. This area was first charted by the Russians in the 18th century, but it wasn't until the United States bought Alaska in 1867 that the area began to see settlement around the canneries and fishing operations here.
The heart of downtown is Ketchikan Creek, where the earliest visitors, Tlingit natives, set up summer fish camps along its shores. Ketchikan Creek's shoreline bends and curves past Creek Street, a pedestrian thoroughfare consisting of wooden boardwalks. During prohibition and in later years, buildings on the street housed several bordellos. Today, restaurants, galleries and gift shops are popular stops for visitors.
Native art and culture flourishes in Ketchikan due to the large population of native Alaskans. The three indigenous Pacific Northwest Indian tribes are the Tlingit, Haida and Tsimshian who considered the areas throughout Northern British Columbia and Southeast Alaska their territory. Ketchikan is home to the world's largest collection of totem poles, timeless monuments in cedar from the first Alaskans.
Today, the town was also home to a large number of signs welcoming the Grand Banks Grand Tour to Ketchikan. As we rounded corners, entered business and strolled past storefronts, we were constantly surprised and warmed by the signs of greeting.
Cab drivers and shop owners who spotted us in our wonderful Ronstan "Grand Tour" jackets all seemed to know about our arrival. The swell of generous recognition peaked at tonight's cocktail-and-appetizer party at Cape Fox Lodge, where Ketchikan Mayor Joe Weinstein greeted our group and toasted our arrival in Alaska's first town. In addition, the Ketchikan Visitors' Bureau sponsored a wonderful talk by a representative from a local fish and wildlife preserve organization.
For her talk she brought a beautiful (and very tame) peregrine falcon; after the informative discussion we enjoyed our meal as she toured the room with Sky Dancer on her arm so everyone could get a close look at this amazing raptor. It was an evening we won't soon forget.
A sad footnote to today's entry: as we left Foggy Bay, one of our boats clipped her stabilizer on a reef and sustained damage. Several other owners on the Grand Tour were right there to assist, and GB Service Manager Larry Crouch was on board in minutes to provide needed assistance. It was a stirring display of camaraderie and support among this close-knit group, and the boat was able to make Ketchikan in safety. The damage, unfortunately, is significant enough to prevent the boat and her owners from completing the final few days of the Grand Tour. We will all miss them very much, and carry a deep gratitude for their contribution to so many good times and great memories on our journey.
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> ROUTE MAP
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- Day 1: Nanaimo
- Day 2: Pender Harbour
- Day 3: Prideaux Haven
- Day 4: Shoal Bay
- Day 5: Lagoon Cove
- Day 6: Sullivan Bay
- Day 7: Sullivan Bay
- Day 8: Sullivan Bay
- Day 9: Duncanby Landing
- Day 10: Shearwater
- Day 11: Khutze Inlet
- Day 12: Klewnuggit Inlet
- Day 13: Prince Rupert
- Day 14: Foggy Bay
- Day 15: Ketchikan
- Day 16: Ketchikan
- Day 17: Meyers Chuck
- Day 18: Santa Anna Inlet
- Day 19: Wrangell
- Day 20: Wrangell
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